Varenna, Italy: why to stay here when visiting Lake Como

When visiting Lake Como, one of the first questions travelers often ask is, where should they stay? There are a number of beautiful towns dotting the shores of Lake Como, but we are partial to Varenna. Here is why you should stay in Varenna, Italy when you visit Lake Como.

Where is Varenna, Italy?

Think of Lake Como as an upside-down Y, with long narrow fingers. Varenna sits on the lake’s eastern shore, where its 3 fingers come together in the Mid-Lake Region. In the same Mid-Lake Region, on the opposite shores, are Menaggio and Bellagio. This trifecta of quaint lakeside towns is a central hub of activity on the lake, making it a logical place to stay. It’s also easily accessible. Varenna is about 60km/40 miles north of Milan, and there are normally 18 trains per day connecting the two locations.

What is there to do in Varenna, Italy?

The answer is – so much! Here are just a few options for how to spend your time here.

Rent a boat

This is our top recommendation. The best thing to do at Lake Como is to get out on the water and admire the scenery and the incredible villas as you cruise by. This is incredibly easy to do in Varenna. We used and recommend Varenna Rent A Boat. No boating license is required, and their rates are very reasonable. We rented for 2 hours and paid €140, which is less than we’ve paid to rent a boat anywhere else on our travels. The boats come equipped with life jackets and the staff will track your trip on GPS to ensure you don’t get into any trouble.

Varenna Rent A Boat has several itineraries they recommend, depending on how long you plan to be out on the water. During our 2 hours, we were able to see the following:

• Villa Balbianello, famous for its roles in the Star Wars and James Bond movie franchises.
• The village of Nesso, famous for its arched stone bridge (if you’re brave enough, you can jump from it!)
• A villa belonging to a Hollywood movie star – it was easy to see why they would have chosen such a lovely place to live.
• We were also able to anchor the boat and take a quick swim before heading back to the dock. The water is nice for swimming – not nearly as cold as you’d think, given the lake’s mountainous location.

Hike from Varenna to Vezio

Starting close to the ferry terminal in Varenna is a hiking path that takes you on a steep climb up the mountain behind the town. The path is about 2km long and mostly shaded. We’re not kidding when we say it’s steep, but AllTrails has plenty of reviews from people who have done it with kids and deem it to be family-friendly.

Visit the Vezio Castle

You didn’t slog up that hillside for nothing! While you’re in Vezio, visit the Castello di Vezio or Vezio Castle. More than a thousand years old, the castle features a lookout tower, a drawbridge, and a falconry. In other words, it looks exactly how you think a medieval castle should look. Additionally, the castle features a collection of ghosts – chalk casts that are shaped each spring when the castle opens to visitors. The casts remain for the season and then melt away over the winter months before being created anew. And if all of that isn’t enough to pique your interest, just wait until you see the view over Lake Como from this vantage point.

The castle is open every year from March until November, but hours fluctuate depending on the season, so check the website before you go. Food, drink and restrooms are available. Note that the castle closes during bad weather. Admission is €5 for adults with discounts available to seniors and students.

Visit Villa Monastero in Varenna, Italy

Villa Monastero is a beautiful property that includes both a villa (now a museum) as well as botanical gardens that extend for 2km along the Lake Como waterfront. The terraced gardens include a number of tropical trees, such as palms and citrus, and architectural details including fountains, reliefs and statuary. Regular-priced entry is €8 with discounts available to seniors, students and groups. Hours of operation vary throughout the year, so check the official website for hours before you go.

BONUS TIP: There is a gorgeous hiking trail that leads from Vezio Castle down to Villa Monastero. You can make a loop of it, starting on the trail that begins behind the ferry terminal, hiking up the hill to visit the castle, and then taking the other trail back down to visit Villa Monastero. Just follow the signs to Sentiero del Viandante. This combo is a great way to spend half a day in Varenna, Italy.

Ferry-hop from Varenna to Bellagio or Menaggio

One of the benefits to staying in Varenna is that Bellagio and Menaggio are each less than 5km away, and the 3 towns are linked by an efficient ferry system. Up-to-date timetables and ticket prices are available on the Navigazione Laghi (ferry line) website. A regular one-way passenger fare between any of the mid-lake towns is €4.60, or you can purchase an all-day pass that might be more cost effective if you plan to use the ferries a lot. Tickets may be purchased online in advance, or simply walk up to the ferry ticket booth before your trip. During peak times you should purchase your ticket at least 30 minutes in advance to secure your spot onboard.

Stroll along Varenna, Italy’s Walk of Lovers

The Walk of Lovers is a short, fenced pedestrian path, cantilevered over the water in Varenna. It’s painted a striking shade of red that really makes it pop in photos. It won’t take you long to walk the full length of this promenade, but you’ll appreciate the views.

Go to the beach and swim

There are a few different places in Varenna where you can access Lake Como and go for a swim. The official beach features a concrete ramp into the water. You can also access the lake via a pebbly beach north of Varenna Rent A Boat’s dock, or via the Spiaggia beach pavilion to the south. The average water temperature peaks around 24 degrees Celsius in July and August.

Where should I stay in Varenna, Italy?

We’ve only experienced one accommodation in Varenna, but recommend it highly. You can’t miss Albergo Olivedo when you’re in Varenna, with its bright yellow facade and prominent location on the waterfront. It’s a charming old building that has been updated with modern amenities like Wi-fi, an elevator and air conditioning. The breakfast buffet is lavish and will give you all the energy you need for busy activity-filled days at the lake.

In conclusion…

Varenna, Italy is a great place for families to stay while visiting Lake Como. It’s very accessible, and there is plenty to see and do while you are in town. What do you think – would you stay here? Do you have any other must-do attractions to suggest to visitors?

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